Retro shapewear from the 1950s is making a stylish comeback, blending vintage charm with modern functionality. This article delves into the history of shapewear from the 1940s to the 1960s, exploring why girdles and corsets were essential during the 1950s and how they have evolved into today's retro-inspired lingerie. Discover the fascinating journey of these iconic garments and their enduring appeal.
During the austerity of World War II, women prioritized comfort to support the war effort. However, the end of the war saw a shift in fashion as women sought to attract partners. This desire culminated in Christian Dior's "New Look," which emphasized a sleek, chic silhouette achievable only with the help of corselets, corsets, or girdles. By the 1950s, girdles became a wardrobe staple for women and even targeted teenagers.
Girdles served multiple purposes: they provided a sleek silhouette and held up nylon stockings. Typically, girdles featured at least two pairs of garter clips—two at the front and two slightly offset at the rear to avoid discomfort when sitting. Open-bottom girdles had elastic straps to keep nylon stockings taut, as the stockings of the 1950s lacked spandex or Lycra and were non-stretch.
The panty girdle, especially the long-leg version, often had garter tabs attached directly to the girdle. This design covered the stocking welt, eliminating the gap of bare thigh above the stocking top. While practical, the long-leg panty girdle was often considered a "passion killer" due to its coverage.
Modern and retro girdles typically use spandex or Lycra for elasticity. However, original girdles from the 1930s used rubber for stretch. The introduction of rubber marked a significant shift in corsetry, making the ultra-rigid corset more flexible. Over time, terms like "roll-on," "step-in," and "corselette" emerged, reflecting the evolving designs.
Playtex once marketed a girdle made from pure latex, now a collector's item due to its rarity. Pure latex deteriorates over time, making these girdles scarce. It's unclear if latex allergies affected wearers, but these girdles are no longer manufactured.
Retro shapewear aims to sculpt the body, using elasticity for control. For more rigid control, various "bones" have been used, including whalebone (baleen), artificial plastics like celluloid, and even coiled metal springs. Whalebone was ideal due to its parallel fibers, which could be shaped by heating and cooling.
The corset, the precursor to the girdle, dates back to 3000 BC, with archaeological evidence showing women with tightly cinched waists. By the 14th century, women wore stiffened linen undergarments laced at the front or back. The term "corset" likely evolved from the French "corps" (body) and the English "bodice." By the 16th century, whalebone provided the necessary rigidity for corsets.
By 1940, the corset gave way to the girdle, often paired with a bra. The 1960s saw a rebellion against restrictive underwear, but fashion has since come full circle.
Burlesque artists have popularized the "art of tease," showcasing girdles, basques, and corsets. Brands like Wonderbra have collaborated with burlesque stars like Dita von Teese to design retro-inspired lingerie. The Royal Festival Hall even hosted the world's largest burlesque lesson in January 2009, highlighting the mainstream appeal of this art form.
Original 1950s girdles, corsets, and basques can be found in specialist online lingerie boutiques or vintage stores. To meet the growing demand, various outlets have emerged, drawing inspiration from the 1940s and 1950s for their retro shapewear designs.
The resurgence of 1950s shapewear reflects a blend of nostalgia and modernity. These garments, once essential for achieving a chic silhouette, have evolved into fashionable and functional pieces that continue to captivate. Whether for everyday wear or burlesque performances, retro shapewear remains a timeless testament to the enduring allure of vintage fashion.
By understanding the rich history and modern revival of 1950s shapewear, we can appreciate its lasting impact on fashion and its continued relevance in today's world.
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