Rico Rincon

Pico de Orizaba Climbing Season

Every glacier has its own unique climbing season. If you attempt to climb it out of season, you'll be putting your lift at risk. 

The highest peak in Mexico is Pico de Orizaba. The mountain towers over the little town of Tlachichuca, standing tall at approximately 18,500 feet. The allure of Orizaba attracts mountaineers from all over the world, both beginners and experts. The glacial climb is great training for the experts, while it also presents a great introductory climb for beginners. The lack of fees for climbing permits makes it even more appealing; if you want to climb the mountain, you don't need anybody's permission to do so! Lodging, dining, and transportation are readily available as well, further adding to Orizaba's appeal.

If you want to summit Pico de Orizaba, you'll need to invest some time and money into preparation. While you can certainly hop on the next plane to Mexico and head immediately to the mountain after you get off the plane, it is not advisable. You will need to plan ahead of time, if you want to have a successful trip. Your first step in preparation is to start planning your entire trip around Orizaba's climbing season. To do otherwise would put life at unnecessary risk, and you don't want to do that.

When is the best time of year to climb Orizaba? Any time from November through March. During those months, the mountain is in its dry season, and it makes for an easier, less-risky climb, thus increasing your chances for a safe summit of Orizaba. For the expert climber, the season is also a great time to practice high-altitude glacier climbing (most likely done in preparation for climbing a larger mountain). Pico de Orizaba is known as a popular training ground for climbers who've set their sights on Mt. Everest. 

Out of season climbing brings with it unpredictable cold fronts, strong winds, and increased risk for fissures in the glacier - all of which add unnecessary risk to the climb. For safety's sake, whenever you're engaging in extreme climbing, always climb during the mountains season.

Another important factor for your climb is the time you begin your ascent. Physically fit, experienced mountaineers can summit Orizaba in as little as six hours. Their return trip will take half that time - approximately three hours. That's a quick ascent, as you can imagine. You should always begin your day with what is called an "alpine start", which means to start your climb before sunrise, usually 2 or 3 hours before dawn. There is a logical reason for beginning your day at such an early time: the heat from the sun softens the ice and it doesn't take long for the ice to melt. The heat becomes the catalyst for falling ice, snow, and rocks. The ideal time to reach summit is by midday, and then you begin your descent in the early afternoon.

The time of year you climb Pico de Orizaba really depends on your goals. If you're a beginner, then it's best to climb the mountain during the ideal climbing months, which are November through March. If you're an expert climber looking to enhance your glacier skills, then climbing during Orizaba's off season might be more appropriate - although the risk obviously increases exponentially when climbing out of season. Whatever your motive, it's always best to hire a professional guide when climbing Orizaba. The extra cost is well worth the benefit of having the experience and knowledge of a professional guide at your disposal while you climb the mountain.

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