What Wise Guys Eat

The Colorful Characters of The Corner Café

The regulars at The Corner Café were a colorful bunch, each with their own unique nickname. There was Joe the Lawyer, who was actually an insurance investigator, and John the Lawyer, who was a stockbroker. Then there was another John the Lawyer, who was indeed a lawyer with an office across the street. Mary the Nurse was the only regular named Mary, making her nickname seem redundant since she was indeed a nurse.

The Wise Guys

Most of the regulars were young men who fancied themselves as wise guys. Their conversations were filled with phrases like "fuggeddaboudit" and "ba-da-bing!" They often talked about "seeing this guy" or "taking care of that thing." Despite their admiration for Robert De Niro and dreams of having nicknames like "Extreme Unction," the most serious crime they likely committed was betting on the Red Sox late in September.

The Food Talk: Chicken Scarpariello

When the conversation wasn't about "this guy" or "that thing," it often turned to food, particularly Chicken Scarpariello. This dish was a hot topic—both literally and figuratively—during my years in Boston. The regulars often debated the merits of different recipes, such as Cantina d’Italia’s version, which included sausage, versus Felicia’s, which did not. Regardless of the recipe, Chicken Scarpariello is a dish that any wise guy would love, as it encourages eating with a fork in one hand and a piece of crusty bread in the other for sopping up the sauce.

The History of Chicken Scarpariello

Chicken Scarpariello, or "shoemaker’s-style" chicken, is named after the humble cobbler who supposedly created the dish from his meager pantry. How it became a favorite among wise guys is a mystery, likely lost to history. However, serving Chicken Scarpariello at home is sure to make your dinner table conversation lively and animated. And will you and your guests enjoy it? Fuggeddaboudit.

Skip’s Chicken Scarpariello Recipe

Ingredients

• 2 ½ – 3 lbs. frying chicken, cut into 8 pieces
• 4 tbsp. olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 cup dry white wine (Pinot Grigio or Verdicchio are popular choices)
• 6-8 hot cherry peppers, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
• 1 14 oz. can chicken broth (preferably low sodium)
• 4 tbsp. flat-leaf Italian parsley
• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Salt & freshly ground black pepper
• 6 links sweet Italian sausage, cut into 1-inch chunks (optional)
• 4 tbsp. flat-leaf Italian parsley

Preparation

1. Season the Chicken: Season the chicken pieces on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
2. Sauté the Garlic: Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, then add the olive oil. Add the garlic and sauté for about 1 minute, being careful not to let the garlic burn.
3. Cook the Chicken: Add the chicken pieces to the sauté pan without crowding. Do this step in batches if necessary. Cook the chicken pieces, turning occasionally, until they’re golden brown all over; about 10 minutes. Remove the chicken pieces from the pan and reserve on a plate, covering them with aluminum foil.
4. Deglaze the Pan: Raise the heat to high, and add the wine. Boil, stirring with a wooden spoon to loosen any bits of chicken that may have caramelized on the bottom of the pan, for about 2 minutes. Add the cherry peppers, chicken broth, parsley, and butter. Allow the mixture to return to the boil, then stir in the lemon juice. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as necessary.
5. Simmer the Chicken: Lower the heat to a simmer, return the chicken to the pan, and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes. For a real wise guy presentation, add the sausage at this point too.

To Serve

Remove the chicken (and optional sausage) pieces to a platter, cover with the sauce, and garnish with the parsley. Serve with plenty of Italian bread for sopping up the sauce.

Serves four

Interesting Stats About Chicken Scarpariello

• Popularity: Chicken Scarpariello is a staple in many Italian-American households and restaurants, particularly in the Northeastern United States.
• Nutritional Value: A serving of Chicken Scarpariello provides approximately 400-500 calories, depending on the recipe variations.
• Cultural Impact: The dish has been featured in various Italian-American films and TV shows, further cementing its status as a "wise guy" favorite.

For more on the cultural significance of Italian-American cuisine, check out Smithsonian Magazine.

Conclusion

Chicken Scarpariello is more than just a dish; it's a conversation starter and a piece of Italian-American history. Whether you're a wise guy or just someone who loves good food, this recipe is sure to be a hit at your dinner table. So go ahead, give it a try, and enjoy the lively conversation that follows. Fuggeddaboudit.

For more authentic Italian-American recipes, visit Serious Eats.