The inner and outer cups are very tightly pressed into the hub. Each presents a very slight inner shoulder accessible only from the opposite end of the hub.
Step 2: Removing the inner and outer cups
The inner and outer cups are very tightly pressed into the hub. Each presents a very slight inner shoulder accessible only from the opposite end of the hub.
Place the hub on the hardwood blocks. Start by reaching in to the shoulder of the inner cup with your punch while tapping it with the hammer. Work your way around the cone and it will gradually drift out of its seat in the hub, carrying the oil seal with it. Remember which way the taper of the cone faces!
Turn the hub over, and now, working from the inner side, remove the outer cone in the same manner.
Step 3: Cleaning and cleanliness
From here on, the secret to long bearing life is cleanliness. Thoroughly clean the hub cavity and the stub axle.
Clean all grit and dirt from your hands and tools and clean your workbench surface.
Step 4: Reassembly
Unwrap the new bearings and place the cones to one side.
Coax the new cup into the recess by laying it onto the lip and tapping on it with the piece of hardwood laid across it. Be careful not to get the cone jammed into the hole at an angle. Once the
outer edge is flush with the hole, continue to tap it in right to the inner shoulder, using your pin punch progressively all around the edge until it gives a nice solid ring as you tap it.
Repeat with the other cup.
Pack the inner cone with grease. Be sure to squeeze the grease right through it, then place it into the inner cup, with the taper the right way.
The oil seal can now be fitted in the same way, except you will not have to use your pin punch, just the hardwood block. Be careful, as it will easily get damaged.
Fill the cavity in the stub axle to about 50% with grease.
Fit the hub back onto the CLEAN stub axle and fit the greased outer cone, tabbed washer and castellated nut. Tighten the nut until you just can’t turn the hub, then back it off until the hub rotates freely, but without any wobble. If you cannot see the split-pin hole, back off a little more so that you can fit a new split pin and bend it over.
It’s not really necessary to put any grease into the cover dome, but I usually give it a smear anyway. Tap the dome back into place, replace the wheel and nip the wheel nuts.
Check the wheel rotation for any excess ‘wobble’ once more. Adjust again if necessary. Finally, lower the vehicle and, very importantly, remember to tighten all the wheel nuts firmly.
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How to Change the Sway bar bushing and sway bar endlink on new beetle (1)
The sway bar (sometimes called anti roll bar) connects the left and right suspension to the front subframe. There are bushings on the middle and ends (end links). Your VW TDI only has a sway bar in the front, there is no sway bar in the rear because it's a torsion beam suspension.
How to Change the Sway Bar Bushing and Sway Bar Endlink on New Beetle (2)
Raise the front end of the car, chock the rear wheels, remove the front wheels, rest the car on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before getting underneath at all, see the TOS Agreement for the legal disclaimer.
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Overall, with the vast plethora of Mustang II-style IFS kits ranging from basic budget setups to fully polished showpieces on the market today, there is very little reason to go with a used Camaro front clip.
