You must wear rubber gloves when working with carburetor cleaners. The one-gallon size of both products comes with a dipping basket. Take your time, and don’t try to throw all of the parts in at once. Keep them separate.
You must wear rubber gloves when working with carburetor cleaners. The one-gallon size of both products comes with a dipping basket. Take your time, and don’t try to throw all of the parts in at once. Keep them separate.
As gasoline gets old and evaporates, it can leave a varnish film or gummy residue on parts and in tiny orifices. It's also possible some small particles and rust could have gotten into the small passages and orifices of the carb. This means that parts inside a carburetor may not move like they are supposed to, and small passages meant to meter air or fuel can become plugged. The varnish or gum will not be completely dissolved or removed with the chemical. A brass wire brush is a big help in removing gum and varnish.
NEVER use a drill bit to clean jets or orifices. Although it doesn’t feel like the drill bit is removing metal, it could enlarge a jet size. Never use a steel paper clip or sand blast the parts either. If you have to get into a jet or tiny passage, use a piece of copper or brass wire. Repeated treatments with the wire and chemical are better than trying to do it all in one pass.
Check the float to be sure that it is not leaking. Immediately upon disassembling the carburetor, shake the float while listening for fluid sloshing around inside. After everything has been cleaned, submerge the float in hot water, and watch for bubbles that would indicate a leak. Rotate the float slowly underwater so that all surfaces are given an opportunity to be facing up. Air rises, and the bubbles will be obvious. Again shake the float and listen for fluid inside of it.
After all of the parts are completely cleaned, dried and inspected, it is time to begin reassembly. Use the new parts that came with the rebuilding kit instead of trying to reuse an old part that still looks good. A spring may have lost its tension, a valve may have developed a flat spot, a gasket may be too thin in spots. New parts are reliable.
NEVER paint the interior of a carburetor. If external parts are to be painted, use Plasticote’s Aerosol Lacquer spray paint. Lacquer is more resistant to gasoline and won’t peel off or dissolve readily. Make sure that you do not get any paint in screw holes, access ports or on linkage that has to move freely.
When you assemble and then reinstall the carburetor, tighten the screws in a pattern (generally opposite screws) that evenly distributes pressure. Tighten the screws a bit at a time, and take at least three steps to fully tighten each one. This will help put even pressure on the flanges and will help prevent breakage.
The adjustment specifications that come with the instructions or that you find in a Motor’s Manual or Chilton’s is a starting place. The details found in Orest Lazarowich’s column, Orest’s Carburetor School in Skinned Knuckles magazine will give you much more detailed and precise
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