Retaining Wall Drainage

First, would be to ensure your landscaping contractor backfills a foot of space behind the wall with gravel. Is having a perforated conduit installed along the interior, or backfilled, underside of the wall. And third, would be to inquire if weep holes will be needed to permit water to drain through the wall.

Ideally , you’d place some kind of waterproofing membrane against it, dig out behind the whole span of the wall, and backfill the region with drainage rock. That would support water to drain out the weep holes. But I am thinking that making an 85-foot trench isn’t your idea of enjoyment.

Here’s another idea: Excavate at a string of holes behind the wall that run down to the amount of your weep holes. If you are fit you can use a posthole digger, if the earth’s not too rugged or a power auger.

Line each hole with filter cloth then fill it in with ¾-inch washed rock. This should help support the water and empty the surrounding land.

If the wall continues to be not too dry, do not despair. Excavate more drainage holes and you may only have to drill more weep holes. I had propose spacing them. You should have the ability to cover it in whatever way you desire once the wall is dry.

You are considering constructing a retaining wall and if you’ve got an eroding slope in your property, remember that there is a lot more involved than putting up the wall itself. Grading work will probably be needed, and some kind of provision for drainage must be included in the construction. It all can add up to making retaining walls an expensive proposal, but jumping measures like drainage characteristics are a recipe for the wall to fail sooner or later later on.

Drain Pipe
The gravel allows the water to percolate readily towards the base of the the wall where it flows down to the end of the wall and subsequently enters the holes in the perforated conduit. At this point, the conduit can be left open so the water flows out onto the earth, or it can be linked to another drainage attribute, if needed.