The basics of drag racing

Drag racing is all about wringing the maximum acceleration out of the car. Basically, a proper drag race tournament consists of a series of two-car eliminations in an all-out acceleration contest from a standing start between two vehicles over an exact distance at a special drag racing track. In India it is usually done on any empty straight road.

How it’s done abroad!

Abroad, drag racing facilities are outfitted with "Christmas Tree" lights, and the standard distance is usually either a quarter-mile (1,320 feet) or an eighth-mile (666 feet). Competing vehicles are divided into a variety of classes, with specific rules that determine eligibility based on type of car and modifications allowed. In addition to the regular "heads-up" races where both cars start off together, there are also handicapped races, known as "E.T. Bracket Racing," where two vehicles of varying performance can race on a potentially even basis. The anticipated elapsed times for each vehicle are compared, with the slower car receiving a head start equal to the difference of the two. With this system, any two vehicles can be paired in a competitive race.

In a professional category racing, the "Christmas Tree" lights control the most important aspect of the race-the launch. The first row of yellow lights warns drivers as they slowly approach the starting line. The second row confirms the "staged" position, which is when the front wheels of the car should be stopped on the starting line as it crosses the staged sensor beam. Then come the "three-amber starting system" lights. In a "pro start," all three amber floodlights in a driver's lane flash almost simultaneously before the green light comes on. In a regular handicap race, drivers get a countdown of one amber light at a time until the green light comes on. The pro start system runs with a 0.4-second difference between amber and green lights, while the handicap system runs with a 0.5- second difference between each of the bulbs. As the green light turns on, the race begins and the timer is started. The timer stops only when the car crosses the finish line at the other end of the track, with time and trap speed recorded. If the last red light turns on, the driver is disqualified. This is caused by a car leaving the starting line before the green light comes on, or staging too deep past the starting line.

There are rally techniques to gain an advantage even before the light goes green. People remove all excess weight and loose items, including spare tire, jack, hubcaps, CDs, beer cases and even excess gasoline in the fuel tank. Now comes dealing with the tyres. Firstly, any negative camber (information about camber is given later on in the article) is dialed out in the suspension setup, which can be done at any alignment shop. This gives optimum grip for the tyres. Secondly, all those 18-inch rims with those stiff low-profile tyres are ditched, for the old stock 15-inch wheels with high-profile tyres. These absorb the initial jolt when launched, and reduce tire spin and wheel hop. People who are really serious and have the money, replace their tires with drag racing slicks at the strip.

Once waved into the staging area, the cars proceed slowly. If the cars have street tires, then there is no need to go through a water box— they simply drive around it. If the cars are running slicks, then they idle through the water to get the slicks wet. After wetting the tyres, the cars pull forward a few feet and do a burnout to warm up the tyres.