Patrik McMurray

Enamel Cufflinks; Past Present And Future

Recently I was kindly invited to comment on the future of cufflink styles in a five year forecast. It’s like trying to predict the weather. However, I gave sincere opinions and was pleasantly surprised to learn that my comments are published as part of an exceptionally well written article by author Ms Manmeet Dawar, Content Coordinator for Fibre2 Fashion.

Cufflinks have emerged not only as affordable fashion accessories conveying your own personal style, but also as great gift items for almost all occasions, for men as well as ladies

www.fibre2fashion.com had an exclusive one-to-one with Mr. Patrick McMurray on the subject of cufflinks. He is an entrepreneur as well as strategic planning and business alignment specialist, actively involved in market research of various fashion accessory brands. He has an active interest in the evolution of fashion over the years. Mr. McMurray expresses his views on this wonderful accessory called cufflinks:

Where do you see the worldwide market for cufflinks in the next 5 years?The next five years will see an end to the whimsical style that has dominated the market since the 80s and a return to classical styles, using traditional materials like enamels. The popularity of cufflinks has risen considerably over the past two years and will continue. The brands to watch are Vivienne Westwood, Ian Flaherty, and Veritas, as they stay focused on producing small quantities and high quality.

What are the future changes that you foresee in cufflinks?The ball end will gradually replace swivel-end cufflinks. Ball ends are easier to manufacture and there are no moving parts to break, therefore they have increased longevity. There will be more focus on culminating colour, pattern, and texture proportionately to achieve more classical finishes.

What are the key elements of a good designer cufflink?Functionality, longevity, proportions, and materials are prerequisites to good designer cufflinks. Colour pattern and texture have to be well balanced, enamels achieve the best results.

According to you, what is the major role of a cufflink? Do you view it as a fashion accessory or as a functional instrument?Talking about the role of cufflinks, Mr. McMurray states, "Cufflinks first and foremost perform a function. They were originally conceived to do so, decoration came later. Remember -one of the core principles in design is - Form follows function".

Their approach was very timely because simultaneously we were launching a new range of enamel cufflinks under an unknown brand name. A very difficult exercise given that the market is crowded with inexpensive but good quality imports.

We decided early in the piece to target the higher end of the market. To succeed at that level means supplying the highest possible quality product that is relative to price.

To help achieve this end I have the good fortune to know Keith Davis a gifted jewellery designer. He is closely associated with The Toye Kenning Spencer Group of companies who own and operate highly respected brand “London Badge and Button”, designers and manufacturers of high quality enamel cufflinks.

So we’d gathered all the components required to produce.

But, at some point during the selection process we had to delve a little into the history of enamel jewellery. After all, fashion is a culmination of the past present and future. To design successfully we learn from the past, act in the present and plan for the future. Research becomes a very important step in the design process.

A very brief history

The first cufflinks appeared in the early 17th century. They were an original alternative to ribbons and lace to retain handles. Considering at the beginning as a personal adornment, it was reserved to the high social class population. In the 19th century, during the Industrial Revolution, the development of precious metal electroplating afforded the masses to get cufflinks in their wardrobe. A wide variety of mechanisms for open and closing cufflinks appeared: the classic chain is replaced by the flip-hinge. Jewellers like Cartier and Tiffany crafted work of art cufflinks in mother of pearl, crystal; precious stones...These famous fashion names establish cufflinks as the essential accessory for men. Mirror of our history, cufflinks espouse centuries through various designs: art deco at the end of 19th century, extravagant in the period 1940-1950, eccentric in 1960 with Hollywood stars and whimsical today.After considerable research and due consideration the natural material choice for us was enamel not even resins can mirror its brilliance or durability and that’s why it remains the most popular choice of for Jewellers.

And to complement our cufflinks we are working on a range a brilliantly coloured floral silk ties, all cut made and trimmed in England.

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