Portrait of the Israeli as a worried woman

"Living in Israel," she says, "means you're in a state of constant struggle. You worry nonstop. You are fighting an endless battle against the bank overdraft."

She takes a puff on her cigarette, her third in the span of 10 minutes. Then she fixes her steely gaze on me. "You must worry all the time too, I'm sure. That's Israel."

Shoer and I are sitting in her coffee shop in the small community of Klil, a tiny village in northern Israel with stunning mountain views and a population of eco-minded farmers, artists, teachers, hoteliers and vagabonds.

The residents of Klil barely number 440, allowing each resident room to spread out, breathe deep and call a vast patch of land his very own.

Shoer is in her late 60s, and despite the fresh air and sprawling landscapes, she oozes tenacity and grit. She inhales and exhales cigarette smoke with the same intensity as a pressure cooker.

Unique Gift

She runs her little java joint, one of only four restaurants in this rural spot, and her husband works as an architect. It is housed in a huge Bedouin-style tent, covered with rugs and buzzing with a calm, slow vibe.

Portrait Oil Painting

The place is reminiscent of the Sinai hangouts once beloved by Israelis, who flocked to pre-revolution Egypt in bygone years for hookah and good times.

Shoer and her husband moved to Klil more than 20 years ago, and before they opened their café, they made money by leasing tents to visitors for 80 shekels a night.