Spanish Serrano Ham

Even during the days of the Roman Empire, Jamon Serrano, or Mountain Ham, was considered a delicacy and its popularity hasn’t diminished in these times of fast food. The preparation of this dry-cured, Spanish ham is anything but fast, but it’s well worth waiting for.

The process begins when a leg from the Landrace White Pig is rolled in sea salt and hung to cure through the changing seasons. No cooking is involved; the leg is simply left for a year to eighteen months in the mountain air, to acquire that distinct flavour we associate with Jamon Serrano. This type of extended curing renders the ham less fatty that than its Italian counterpart, Prosciutto. The skilled Ham Master will declare the ham ready after inserting a splinter of cow bone into the leg, then sniffing it before giving the go ahead for the ham to be taken down. The ham is cut paper thin from the leg which is mounted on a special stand, and often served with Manchego cheese or olives.

Jamon Serrano is eaten by Spaniards on a daily basis and is available in every bar and restaurant, but in the lead up to Christmas, supermarkets have hundreds hanging from their shelves. The price varies dramatically along with the age of the ham. It would be difficult to find a Spaniard who doesn’t like Mountain Cured Ham.

Whilst the white pigs that supply the ham for Serrano can be fed with commercial feed, the story is different for the Pata-Negra Iberico pigs that are the source of Jamon Iberico. Descended from the Iberian Wild Boar, these animals live a life of luxury before making the ultimate sacrifice, usually at about two years of age, which is much later than their white cousins. Foraging in around five acres of specially maintained forests named ‘La Dehesa’, and eating fifteen to twenty pounds of bellotas (acorns) daily, the pigs can add four kilos of weight each day. The exercise they take whilst foraging for the acorns is considered a major flavour-adding factor. The animals sleep and eat in open during their entire lives.

These hams are hung for two to four years before being deemed ready, and each ham is in big demand. Some producers have waiting lists that extend to several years, and some much sought after legs are auctioned, fetching huge sums. The fact is that a good producer cannot supply enough hams to meet demand. During the hanging period, a ham will lose 20 to 40 percent of its weight and convert a good proportion of the remaining fat into good-cholesterol fat, but this process only applies to the acorn fed animals. This rich, nutty flavoured meat is also sliced paper thin before serving.

Hind legs are normally used for Serrano and Iberico hams, but it is possible to purchased a foreleg, or paletilla. Apart from the price, the difference is that the paletilla is smaller and fattier than a hind leg, but is cured in the same manner and can have a tremendous flavour. If you’re on a tight budget, ask for a paletilla.

A Tapa is an excellent way to try Spanish ham without breaking the bank, and all the better with a plate of olives and a glass of local wine. Some restaurants will serve a dish of assorted hams for you to test, but whichever way you decide to take your ham, it’s sure to be a pleasant experience.