Vitamin A acid derivatives

Vitamin A acid used in cosmetic raw materials has three derivatives forms, namely - A aldehyde, A alcohol, A esters. Vitamin A acid not only can suppress acne, but also can anti-wrinkle, scavenge free radicals, improve pigmentation, promote hair follicle epithelial cell differentiation, inhibit sebaceous gland activity, shrink pores, correct abnormal keratinization, accelerate skin metabolism; at certain concentrations, vitamin A acid can stimulate fibroblast cells, promote collagen and elastin synthesis, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve photoaging. But such a miracle ingredient is also not perfect, Vitamin A acid in the sun and the air is very delicate and easy inactivation, strong irritant to the skin is also an indisputable fact, so sunscreen is very important.

Three most important derivatives: A aldehyde is closest to the vitamin A acid derivative form, its irritation compared to all-trans acid A is much milder; A alcohol, is a vitamin A form can directly intake from certain foods (such as fish oil liver), or indirectly intake from carrotene (such as tomatoes, carrots, mangoes, spinach). A alcohol, under the skin will be as all-trans-retinol dehydrogenase catalyzed first converted to A aldehyde, then eventually converted to A acid work on the skin cells. If A esters want to convert to A acid is a very long way to go, it must first convert into A alcohol, and then converted to A aldehyde, and finally convert to A acid.

According to tretinoin manufacturer, all-trans vitamin A acid has a strong physiological activity, it can combined with six receptors in the skin, and its irritation also the strongest, all-trans vitamin A acid is directly prohibited add in cosmetics, only in drugs can see it. All-trans vitamin A acid is also a good application drugs for decades, not only for the treatment of acne have a good effect, on seborrheic dermatitis, ichthyosis, psoriasis and other skin illnesses treatment also contributed.

Although the effect of all-trans vitamin A acid is powerful, but not recommended for long-term use, all-trans vitamin A acid has photosensitivity (it only can use at evening), with a strong irritant and belongs to the category drugs, is not suitable for long-term large-scale use, appropriate concentration A aldehydes and A alcohols are more suitable for long-term use to help delay aging, although it take effect slower, but the actual effect of long-term is no difference with all- trans vitamin A acid. All-trans vitamin A acid should not easily to try, especially higher concentrations (0.05% to 0.1%) all-trans vitamin A acid.

Use all-trans vitamin A acid against non-inflammatory acne, probably in the early use of twenty-three weeks can be seen the effect, but effects does not mean cure, it generally need to stick with at least six weeks to see a more significant improvement. When you see a more significant improvement (usually three to six months), can appropriate reduce the frequency of use, its effect also can continue.

Use all-trans vitamin A acid improve photoaging, probably in the early use of three to four months can see the effect, but need to stick with using six months to see more obvious results. Similarly, at the early stage of using all-trans vitamin A acid may be deepen wrinkles, exacerbate the deterioration of dry, sensitive, redness and so on, at this time, you should continue to insist on using it. Note that the all-trans vitamin A acid can improve photoaging damage has occurred, but can not cure. When the all-trans vitamin A acid play the effects of improving photoaging (usually one year), it only need to coat three times one week to continue maintain the effect, but after stopping use, the improved skin will as the time pass gradually decreasing, return to what they are.

Source:http://www.cosprm.com