Texturing Metal in Jewellery Making

The default finish for manufactured jewellery is high polish. To get that flawless finish the manufacturers erase all tool marks, leaving behind little evidence of the hand of the maker. Smooth and shiny might be appropriate for jewellery shop bling but there are other treatments to make a metal surface more interesting.

                Most metalworking techniques leave a distinctive imprint on the metal. Many metal smiths and studio jewellers prefer to leave signs of their handiwork by intentionally incorporating tool marks into the design of their product. The result is a finish with a hand-wrought aesthetic that imparts a sense of connection with the creation process.

                A textured surface can also be a final embellishment to a piece of jewellery or even a practical consideration for wear and maintenance. After all, a textured surface can eliminate the need for a piece to be frequently polished. However, any area to be textured should first be refined, finished appropriately, and clean and smooth. Texture shouldn’t be used to hide a poorly finished surface.

Direct Texturing

                When a tool is applied directly to the metals surface the texture’s depth is determined by the tool and force used e.g. hammering, chasing, scratching, engraving.

Indirect Texturing

                Texture is transferred onto the metal from another surface or is imparted through a non solid agent e.g. etching, roll painting, reticulation.

Hammering

                The easiest way to texture metal is with a hammer. By striking the metal repeatedly with a tool, you dent a mar the surface in a process called distressing. Distressing implies creating a rough, random and uneven texture.

                There are special texturing hammers, but most hammered textures for jewellery scale work can be created without custom-made hammers or specialist tools. The typical jeweller’s bench already has suitable implements within easy reach.

                Two of the most common and useful tools are the chasing hammer and the goldsmiths hammer. Keep in mind that whatever surface is on the tool will be left on the metal. A polished face will leave a polished indentation; a rough, coarse, or textured face will leave that impression on the your handmade jewellery.

Mechanical Texturing

                A flex shaft can be used for both directional and nondirectional texturing. When fitted with spinning tools such as sanding drums, bull burs, grinding stones, separating discs, and diamond grinding wheels, the flex shaft produces a wide variety of textures. A reciprocating hammer hand piece can be used to get stippled and dapped effects.