The Surin Elephant Round-Up is a vibrant cultural festival that takes place every November in Surin, a province in eastern Thailand. This event is not just a showcase of the majestic Thai elephants but also a celebration of the region's rich Khmer heritage, with up to 70% of the local population speaking Khmer. Surin, located just 40 kilometers from the Cambodian border, is a melting pot of cultures where the Laotian influence gives way to a strong Khmer presence.
The festival's main events unfold at the Lak Muang Stadium in downtown Surin, where over 200 elephants participate in a variety of performances. These include sacred rites, demonstrations of traditional hunting techniques, and more light-hearted activities such as tug-of-war and football. The stadium also hosts folklore plays and a rocket festival akin to Yasothon's, while local artisans and street entertainers contribute to the festive atmosphere.
Surin's culinary scene comes alive during the festival, with local favorites like frog and maengda (water bugs) taking center stage. The town's residents are known to hunt for frogs during monsoon rains and use neon lights to attract water bugs. The Artist's Pub and "joke" curry shops become hubs of activity, alongside the regular markets and hotels like Petchkasem and Tharin. Accommodations fill up quickly, often booked a year in advance, so early reservations are recommended.
For those planning to attend the round-up, it's advisable to purchase train tickets well ahead of the late November event. Roads leading to the capital can become congested on the Sunday evening following the festival, so travelers should be prepared for delays.
Surin offers more than just the annual elephant round-up. The border road to Ta Muang features three well-preserved Khmer-style temples on the edge of a plateau, with Cambodia's flat jungle land stretching beyond. The Chakneua Pinery Forest reserve, a Thai-Danish project, is a haven for nature enthusiasts, boasting a collection of world-class pine species.
The villages of Taklang and Gapoe, north of Surin, are home to the Suay people, who migrated from Southern Cambodia about 200 years ago. Their expertise with elephants is renowned, with a deep spiritual connection to the animals that dates back to the Ayutthaya period.
Sikhorophum is known for its Khmer ruins, while nearby villages like Ban Butom and Ban Choke are famous for their basket-weaving and silverware, respectively. These cottage industries offer a glimpse into the local craftsmanship without the commercialization of big showrooms.
In Buriram Province, the hilltop sanctuary of Phanom Rung, built contemporaneously with Angkor Wat, now surpasses Phimai in annual visitor figures. Its restored temple and Naga bridges are considered some of the finest examples of Khmer architecture in Thailand.
Buriram is not only the gateway to Phanom Rung but also offers panoramic views from Khao Kradung Hill, ideal for photographers. The Soradeg Stone Caring Centre is another attraction, where sculptural works are created in an open-air setting. The province also hosts a kite-flying festival in November and a son et lumiere festival at Phanom Rung in March/April.
Surin and Buriram provinces offer a unique blend of Thai and Khmer cultures, making them compelling destinations for travelers seeking an alternative Thai experience. Whether attending the elephant round-up or exploring the region's historical sites, visitors will find a wealth of cultural diversity to explore.
For more information on the Surin Elephant Round-Up, you can visit the Tourism Authority of Thailand. To learn about the Khmer temples near Surin, check out the Phanom Rung Historical Park page.
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