In this Gucci Spring 2010, Frida Giannini delivered an LBD-inspired collection of a different sort of Gucci. Her program notes called the lineup a “dynamic and coherent vision of modern femininity.” She is both aggressive and well-heeled, dual virtues she flaunts from every laced-up, trussed-up, perforated angle.
To the first point, aggression, this woman’s steely bravado comes lacquered in a heavy coating of slick. For spring, Giannini served up plenty to lure her via a superskinny silhouette, whether ergonomically seamed dresses, jackets over high-waisted pants, boldly latticed “spring boots” and jersey gowns. But how to distinguish such racy fare? Giannini worked an almost maniacal extreme-sports preoccupation — multifabric collage constructions along with endless ties, cords, cutouts, harnesses and other assorted gadgetry — that wrestled toward S and M. Not all wealthy women who love clothes want to look refined; virtually all want to look as if they got what they paid for. While no one could accuse Giannini of shooting for elegance here, unlike with some past collections, she made certain the clothes looked labor-intensive and expensive.
