An often unlooked part of most cars are the wheel bearings. The bearings support the full weight of the car both while stationary and under load. As the mileage increases on the car, heat and lack of lubrication can cause the bearings to wear and possibly fail. Symptoms of a failed wheel bearing are a continual low rumbling sound coming from the wheels that may or may not go away while turning in one direction.
An often unlooked part of most cars are the wheel bearings. The bearings support the full weight of the car both while stationary and under load. As the mileage increases on the car, heat and lack of lubrication can cause the bearings to wear and possibly fail. Symptoms of a failed wheel bearing are a continual low rumbling sound coming from the wheels that may or may not go away while turning in one direction. Replacing the bearings isn° a difficult procedure, but it does involve some specialized steps to ensure that it is done right. That said, here¯ how you do it.
Begin by removing the front brake assembly shown in our tech article on brake pad and disc replacement. Once the calipers, pads and discs are removed, you'll have access to the wheel bearing hub. Remove the dust cap from the front of the wheel hub. In some cases, the hub will just gently slide off using a screwdriver against the lip as shown here. Sometimes, you may need to use a little penetrant spray around the outer edge and let it soak in to help ease it off.
Here is the hub with the dust cap removed. The axle nut sits at the center. It's a good idea to wipe off any excess grease on the nut. Use a 5mm hex socket to loosen the clamp on the axle nut. This clamp holds the axle nut in place on the spindle. Once you loosen the clamp, you should be able to easily remove the nut from the spindle.
With the axle nut removed, you will be able to pull the hub off. As you do, the outer wheel bearing will pop out. The tapered bearing sits inside a race that is pressed into the hub. Check the races and bearings for any signs of discoloration or pitting. These are signs that the bearing is worn and requires replacement. Clean all the grease off the spindle and check it for wear as well. If the spindle shows any grooves or pitting, you'll want to replace it.
With the wheel hub removed from the car, turn it over to the back side. You'll see an oil seal pressed inside. You'll first need to remove this seal to remove the inner bearing and race. Use a seal puller to remove the old oil seal from the wheel hub. It will take a fair amount of force to pry the old seal from the hub. Don't be afraid if the old seal deforms or bends as you pull it out. These are designed as one time use items and you'll likely destroy it as comes out. Once the old oil seal is removed, you can extract the rear wheel bearing from the hub. Take a look at the face of the needle bearings for any signs of pitting, scratching or discoloration.
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How to Change the Sway bar bushing and sway bar endlink on new beetle (1)
The sway bar (sometimes called anti roll bar) connects the left and right suspension to the front subframe. There are bushings on the middle and ends (end links). Your VW TDI only has a sway bar in the front, there is no sway bar in the rear because it's a torsion beam suspension.
How to Change the Sway Bar Bushing and Sway Bar Endlink on New Beetle (2)
Raise the front end of the car, chock the rear wheels, remove the front wheels, rest the car on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before getting underneath at all, see the TOS Agreement for the legal disclaimer.
The Working Principle of Independent Front Suspension (4)
Overall, with the vast plethora of Mustang II-style IFS kits ranging from basic budget setups to fully polished showpieces on the market today, there is very little reason to go with a used Camaro front clip.
