Flood waters can cause devastating ruin to homes and businesses. If you
live in an area that's prone to floods, you might know how much work it
is to clean up after the flood waters have receded. If you've never been
through a flood before, here are some things you'll need to do to clean
up after a flood.
When your house floods, the water can wreak havoc on the structure of
the house, your personal belongings, and the health of the inside
environment. Flood waters contain many contaminants and lots of mud.
High dollar items can get ruined all at once, even with just an inch of
water, for example: carpeting, wallboard, appliances, and furniture. A
more severe storm or deeper flood may add damage to even more expensive
systems, like: ducts, the heater and air conditioner, roofing, private
sewage and well systems, utilities, and the foundation.
After a flood, cleaning up is a long and hard process. Here is a list
of common techniques for sanitizing and cleaning flooded items:
First things first: call your insurance agent. If your insurance
covers the damage, your agent will tell you when an adjuster will
contact you. List damage and take photos or videotape as you clean.
You'll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for
disaster assistance and income tax deductions.
Contaminated mud- Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.
Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces
with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution
of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product that is
labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs.
In the kitchen-
Immerse glass, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware
for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine
bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel.
Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling
in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case
because it reacts with many metals and causes them to darken.
Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.
Furniture and household items-
Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as
possible. Use an air conditioner or dehumidifier to remove moisture or
open at least two windows to ventilate with outdoor air. Use fans to
circulate air in the house. If mold and mildew have already developed,
brush off items outdoors to prevent scattering spores in the house.
Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with
disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold
spores.
Mattresses should be thrown away.
Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.
Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair. Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.
Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they've been contaminated by floodwaters.
Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned
later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and
store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer
to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw
and clean them or take them to a professional.
Ceilings and walls-
Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove wallboard, plaster and
paneling to at least the flood level. If soaked by contaminated
floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed.
If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting
a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This
creates a "chimney effect" of air movement for faster drying. A
reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only
the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.
Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.
The three kinds of insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam
might only need to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out
if muddy but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in
cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and
can lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.
Electrical system- The system must be shut off
and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned
back on. Wiring must be completely dried out- even behind walls.
Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and
junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.
Heating and cooling systems and ducts- Will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.
Appliances- Appliances will get stains, odors,
silt deposits, and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and
sanitized. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could
seriously damage it and/or shock you. Professional cleaning is
recommended for electronics, TVs and radios, washing machines, dryers,
dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners. The hard exterior can be hand cleaned.
All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly
grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or
adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be
electrocuted.
Pump out the basement- If your basement is full
or nearly full of water, pump out just 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If
you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will
be greater than the pressure inside the walls. That may make the walls
and floor crack and collapse.
Floors- With wood subflooring, the floor
covering (vinyl, linoleum, carpet) must be removed so the subflooring
can dry thoroughly which may take several months. Open windows and doors
to expose the boards to as much air as possible.
Carpeting- Clean and dry carpets and rugs as
quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your
carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the
carpet was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and
rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner
into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse
with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don't use
this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor
thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to
clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can't be removed, dry it as
quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan
to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and
ventilate with fans underneath.
Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.
Wood floors- Wooden floors should be dried
gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some
restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through
the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor
boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce
buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting
repairs.
For More Discussion of this Topic Check this Links:
Graeme Stephens has been running the largest owned carpet cleaning company in new Zealand for 24 years. IICRC qualified "master restoration technician"
