Now turn the whole hub over and clean the mating surface for the outer wheel bearing race. Center the new race in the hub and carefully check that it is straight. Like the inner bearing race, you'll want to use either a drift or a socket to tap the outer race into the hub. Be careful not to cock the race in the bore when driving it in. Keep driving the race down until it hits the stop on the flange. Take care not to damage the tapered face of the race.
Now turn the whole hub over and clean the mating surface for the outer wheel bearing race. Center the new race in the hub and carefully check that it is straight. Like the inner bearing race, you'll want to use either a drift or a socket to tap the outer race into the hub. Be careful not to cock the race in the bore when driving it in. Keep driving the race down until it hits the stop on the flange. Take care not to damage the tapered face of the race.
Coat the spindle with a good amount of high temp wheel bearing grease. In this case, we are using the factory applied grease from Mercedes-Benz. Now fit the wheel hub back over the spindle and push it back until the seal pops over the flange on the back of the spindle. Pack the front wheel bearing with the high temp grease like you did with the rear bearing. Like before, take your time and make sure that all the spaces in the bearing are coated evenly. Fit the bearing into the wheel hub. Keep in mind that the tapered section of the bearing fits into the race facing inward.
You'll now need to adjust the wheel bearing. There are two schools of thought of how to do this. One is to use a dial indicator mounted on the face of the wheel hub and measure the amount of lateral run out on the center of the clamping nut. The other is to thread the nut on the end of the spindle and tighten it until you can't turn the hub anymore. Then back the nut off until you can just turn the hub by hand. Then tighten the 5mm bolt on the end of the nut to 11Nm (8ft/lbs).
If you use a dial indicator, set up the indicator to measure the lateral play (back and forth pulling on the rotor) while turning it. You£l need to tighten the spindle nut when the run-out measures between 0.01-0.02mm.
Like with the other method, tighten the 5mm bolt on the end of the nut to 11Nm (8ft/lbs). The last step is to put a little of the high temp grease on the inside of the dust cap and place it back onto the hub. Use a hammer to lightly tap the hub back into place. All that's left to do at this point is to re-install the brake disc, pads and calipers and you're done.
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How to Change the Sway bar bushing and sway bar endlink on new beetle (1)
The sway bar (sometimes called anti roll bar) connects the left and right suspension to the front subframe. There are bushings on the middle and ends (end links). Your VW TDI only has a sway bar in the front, there is no sway bar in the rear because it's a torsion beam suspension.
How to Change the Sway Bar Bushing and Sway Bar Endlink on New Beetle (2)
Raise the front end of the car, chock the rear wheels, remove the front wheels, rest the car on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before getting underneath at all, see the TOS Agreement for the legal disclaimer.
The Working Principle of Independent Front Suspension (4)
Overall, with the vast plethora of Mustang II-style IFS kits ranging from basic budget setups to fully polished showpieces on the market today, there is very little reason to go with a used Camaro front clip.
