Tree Climbing: The Safest Tree Climber

Aug 17 19:59 2008 Len Q. Print This Article

The greatest kind of tree climber is all too aware that he or she is the visitor, only a visitor, and not the keeper of what is surveyed. In the end, when the climbing is done and you're standing on the ground, the greatest kind of tree climber leaves with not the littlest indication that he or she was there.

A safe tree climber is the best kind of tree climber there is. He doesn't disturb the tree in any way,Guest Posting from its roots to the top of its crown. She respects what grows on and around the tree. She knows that when the climbing is done, the tree should be as pristine as it was before you even got up there.

To protect the tree, you must inspect it before you climb. Only then can a climber decide that a tree is suitable for a climb and strong enough to support a climber. There are four zones of tree inspection to satisfy (primarily based on A Climber's Guide to Tree Inspection of Tree Climbers International). The first is the Wide Angle View Zone. Inspect the tree from a distance of about 30-70 feet, depending on how large it is. You want to see the tree as an isolated stucture in its own space.

Large cracks or splits down the trunk or along a large branch are more readily seen from a distance, as are weakened or fractured branches that appear to need just the slightest nudge before they plummet to the ground. The lean of a tree is much easier to detect from a distance than if you were standing beneath itas are power lines. Do not climb near power lines. Just don't do it. Take your time, moving slowly around the tree. Don't rush. Every tree deserves your focused attention.

Now you'll inspect the Ground Zone. This is the area around the base of the tree, including its exposed root system, as well as a few feet up the tree trunk. Be mindful of where you place your feet, and don't take steps unless your eyes are on the ground. Take care not to damage what may be delicate or rare plants. Do not disturb nesting sites, actual nests, hives, burrows or the like. You are just visiting and don't forget it.

While inspecting the Ground Zone, there are some tell signs to look for.

æ If there are dead branches lying on the ground, step away from the tree and look up. Do a closer inspection of the canopy for other dead branches that haven't quite found their way down yet.

æ Check for a trunk cavity, especially along the base of the tree. Its presence usually indicates a weakening of the entire tree, especially if there are multiple cavities. The same is true for splits or cracks in the trunk. Multiple cracks or splits may mean that the tree is in danger of breaking.

æ If you notice cracked or raised soil at the base of a tree, it's a possible sign of uprooting, especially if it's opposite the leaning side of a leaning tree. Be mindful of fungal growth on or around the base of a tree. It is indicative of trunk rot and root decay, because fungi only grow on dead and decaying matter. If a tree has lost all its anchoring roots (which hold the tree in place), a soft wind or the weight of rainwater on leaves could actually topple the entire tree.

Now you'll inspect the Trunk Zone. There are a number of tip off signs that indicate when the tree is weakening. As previously mentioned, a tree with an extreme trunk lean requires ground inspection for signs of being uprooted. Special training isn't necessary to detect insect infestation. Signs to look for:

æ Completely dead isolated branches in the canopy

æ A dead top, which is a completely dead canopy

æ Sawdust type patches on the trunk

æ Pitch tubes on the trunk, which are light colored sap clusters

æ Unusual color patches

æ Mottled leaves or a uniform degradation of the structure of the leaves

Other important signs to look for: The absence of bark on a trunk could mean fungal growth or a dead section. Lightning strikes are often indicated by a long bare strip. Trees with multiple trunks show weakness if the trunks form a nearly closed "V". If you see a ridge of wood growing downwards on both sides of the connected trunks, it could mean that the tree is strengthening a weak area or that there's a fracture under the surface.

Abnormalities in the Crown Zone (canopy) usually involve dead wood. Large trees will naturally have dead branches but it is the location of these branches that you need to pay close attention to. Unhealthy trees often have branches dying only at their tips. A good number of these dead branches high in the canopy mean that the tree is already dying. Individual dead branches will have brown leaves or no leaves at all. A dying or dead branch will show a loss of bark or fungal growth.

Point of interest. Life-threatening branches that are already broken but are still lodged in a tree are called widow-makers. They need to be avoided at all costs. When you can do it safely, remove dead, decaying or infected branches. If safety isn't secured, avoid these branches from a safe distance. Be very careful not to trim green wood or living branches. If you can help it at all, just leave it be.

When it's done and your feet are on the ground, the safest tree climber walks away without the barest hint that she was there. This climber is only a visitor. Remember: We climb to enjoy. Not to control. Be safe up there!

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About Article Author

Len Q.
Len Q.

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn about ª Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them ª Sharpening Other Edges (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes) ª The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and more Find it here at http://www.MakeKnivesSharp.com .

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