A Long Legacy of Fashion: The History of Hermes

The Hermes (pronounced air mess) name has a long history of excellence and worldwide success. Well known for their designer handbags, Hermes entered the fashion world as a saddler in 1837. Originally running a harness workshop on the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, Thiery Hermes created a legacy that would extend many generations and nearly two centuries.

Very soon after its inception, the Hermes house was already making a name for itself. In 1855, Hermes earned accolades at the Paris Exposition for first in class, and later won the First Class Medal of the 1867 Exposition Universelle. So fine were the Hermes harnesses and dressings, that coronations were often put off for the completion of these accoutrements.
Around 1880, Charles-Emile Hermes took over the business and moved the shop to a location near Palais de I’Elysee at 24 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honore. It was during this time that Hermes launched the business into retail sales, and bringing up his own sons in the business, the Hermes Company became purveyors to the most elite clients in Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. The first nod to the Hermes handbag came in the form of a “haut a courroies” bag, which allowed riders to carry their saddles with them.

By 1914, Charles Emile had retired, handing over the reins of the company to his sons, who renamed it Hermes Freres. They employed 80 craftsmen during this time, and also obtained exclusive rights to use the zipper in their leather goods and clothing. Throughout the 20s, Emile-Maurice remained as the sole head of the business. He had an eye toward the ever-changing future, and added an accessories line at this time. While nurturing his own sons into the family business, Hermes added a line of leather garments, the first being a zippered leather golfing jacket that was designed for the Prince of Wales. The Hermes handbag was introduced in 1922 – at the insistence of a demanding wife. Emile-Maurice’s wife complained of not having a suitable one, so her husband designed one for her. Hermes previewed his women’s couture line in Paris in 1929, following the release of the Hermes purse.

During the 1930s, Hermes produced some of his most recognized goods. The leather Sac a depeches (later renamed the Kelly bag) was introduced in 1935, and in 1937 the Hermes carre (scarves) debuted.  The 30s also celebrated Hermes’ 100th anniversary, and witnessed the entrance in the U.S. market by way of the Neiman Marcus department store in New York.

After his death in 1951, Emile-Maurice Hermes was succeeded by Robert Dumas-Hermes, his relative by marriage. Dumas-Hermes introduced the carriage and horse logo and well-known orange Hermes boxes. He was first and foremost a businessman with a mind toward marketing, and in 1956 when the new princess of Monaco was spotted carrying the Sac a depeches Hermes handbag, he promptly renamed it the Kelly Bag. The shot of Princess Grace appeared in Life magazine, and by the late 1950s, the Hermes logo reached renowned status.

The company changed hands again in 1970, when Jean Louis Dumas-Hermes took over from his father. He later launched an advertising campaign that took the discreet Hermes name from “old people’s nostalgia” to the subject of a young person’s dreams. He strengthened the marketing for the fashion house and strove for excellence. By this time, women were sporting the Kelly bag and the Constance clutch, their heads and necks adorned with Hermes’ trademark brightly colored scarves. Bold Hermes jewelry and sensuous cashmeres only added to the sense of class and luxury.

Some of the most recognized women in the world carry designer Hermes handbags. Among these are Nicole Kidman, Paris Hilton, Madonna, and the Duchess of Windsor. Below are descriptions of the company’s most popular Hermes purses:

• The Kelly Bag: Typically made from crocodile, alligator, ostrich-skin, or other plain leathers, it sports a metal-tipped clasp that can be fastened with a tiny padlock. The key is often hidden in the leather and dangles close by from the handle.

• The Constance shoulder bag: This Hermes purse is a simple design, and varies only slightly from the Constance clutch. The shoulder bag offers a double strap, and both have the large H clasp.

• The Trim shoulder bag: A favorite of Jacqueline Bouvie Onasis, this Hermes handbag is an elegant favorite. It boasts a simple, single strap with a belted buckle, and a dainty chain clasp.

• The Birkin: Named after Jane Birkin, this Chanel bag offers sturdy double straps, a simplistic clasp, and comes in the traditional “envelope” style.