Pointbreak Morning Patrol

A point break is a long, well formed wave that breaks over reef, rubble, cobblestones, and sand. What's it like to surf a fantastic point break? Well, lets say you're an advanced surfer, preparing to surf a fantastic pointbreak on a good day. You awake early and eat a fast power breakfast, some yogurt and granola and maybe a banana or 2. You wash it all down, put on your boardshorts, and get on down to the pointbreak. You show up to the paddlle-out place and look out to ocean, and it's most excellent, so there you are, geared up and cheerful while viewing most excellent lines stacked up, clear to the horizon, and a few content but chilly-looking pals about to paddle out along with you. So you look at the waves for some minutes, timing the sets, and when it seems like a lull is coming, you all run as quick as you can to the ocean with your board, launch yourself into the shorebreak and land on your board, to get a great running start for your paddle out. Now, that 1st leap into the daybreak sea feels sooo great, and once you are settled and paddling out, you look up, and move it on out to the lineup. You'll most likely be hit by one or two set waves while in your paddle out, but there are tactics of dealing with even rather big waves without ever having to bail your surfboard. There are indeed times when abandoning your surfboard is your only course of action, but this ought to normally be your decision of last resort. Bailing your surfboard is more often than not not a good idea - your leash can break, leaving you without a surfboard, and your surfboard can smack into someone who might just smack you back! So, you master 2 different techniques for paddling out - one is called "duck diving", and the other one is referred to as "turning turtle". Duck diving is the technique used by shortboarders, and longboarders usually turn turtle if the waves are head high or larger. Or else, longboarders can duck dive too, or since they have a big board that can paddle fast, in small waves they can typically just bulldoze their way out over the foamball.

So returning to this morning's session: you have made it out, the offshore wind is gently blowing, the sun is shining a perfectly angled daybreak light, and you have got these perfect waves all to yourself, your family, and your pals. Now, I can write this with all the honesty I possess: this is unquestionably the best thing I can think of.... the best lifestyle that anyone could ever wish for...cheering your boys and girls on while they instruct YOU how to surf, heckling your acquaintances, and dropping into some beautifully formed, hollow and barreling, very long pointbreak waves. Forget about cruise ships and high-class lodgings, trust me, it's all about looking for those fantasy waves, the ones that you'll certainly not, forget, and keeping it up! Surfing is not only pleasurable, it teaches you respect, and how to be patient and relax. I personally believe that it's really earth's most desirable kind of therapy!

Lets focus on my first wave of today now. I am now surfing on what could quite possibly come out to be an incredible wave. It's peaking up early, and it seems as though I can pull into a nice tube, right off the drop. I pull into the barrell and see the wave going over my head. I look out of the tube and return a grin to a girl who is grinning at me. Then I come soaring out of the barrell at a very high speed. Next, I make a hard, fast drive down the line of the wave, make a turn off the bottom and do a cutback. I do this turning back into the breaking part of the wave with all the strength I can muster, and I pull it off. I realize, then, that my legs have become numb. Consequently, I wait a bit, pant, hit my upper thighs, and when my energy is back, I go ahead and do some stunts, with an attempt to conclude the wave with a bizarre manuever. Then I walk back to the point for some drinking water, sunblock, and back to the waves it is...

So what's so great about a point break? Why did Bodhisatva devote himself to them?

1. Ordinarily, they are pretty adequately formed, and deliver barrells, wave faces for carving, and excellent peaks to throw gallons of water around.
2. They are pretty much spread out, crowd-wise, and commonly have several different distinct sections to the wave.
3. Even a so-so surfer canpull off fabulous moves, and appear to be an expert! (sometimes).
4. At pointbreaks, you actually dedicate pretty much as much time truly riding waves as you do paddling.
5. You are able to practically play around in some pointbreak tubes - unlike most beachbreak barrells, which are usually either a profitable competition to the end, or a mouthful of sand.
6. Well, they're just plain the longest waves obtainable, so in terms of true entertainment, they're the 9's and 10's of surfing!